R53 Tuning

[craigib76]

As always it all depends on just how full your piggy bank is.

I'd start out with a good foam, wash, polish & wax and then a load of stickers.
You'll cut down on the drag immensely and the stickers are about 3-5bhp each depending on the size and colour.

Once you've got the big mods out of the way, de-flap the airbox and throw an ITG in it. You'll get a tad more ooomph and a louder whine from the 'charger.



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Unless it has a jcw airbox it won't have a flap in the airbox to remove ��

[jdl_1967]

How do you want your power? A 17% will give you more, but in a modern, turbo-type way - i.e. solid midrange, but will tail off further up the rev range (the supercharger by this point is spinning far beyond its design specs, and generates too much heat). That said, a pulley is cheap power.

Improve the intake, improve the exhaust. Remember an intercooler doesn't give you more power, it just allows you to keep the power you have for longer.

Depending on the power you want, depends on what plugs you need. Stock R53 is heat range 6, JCW is 7, above 210 you're looking at 8. R53 power isn't cheap to come by - 230bhp is a cam, tune etc if you're not going down the 17% route.

FWIW I have a JCW 210 (11% pulley), further modded with a Janspeed manifold with Tomcat, early-type Newman cam, 550s and tune. Mine make 230bhp, which is more than enough in a small FWD hatch IMO.

I kept the 11% pulley as I wanted to make good power to the redline - I like revving each gear out. The Newman improves the midrange and all-over torque figures. If I was doing it again I might go Catcam, but I wouldn't go for a smaller pulley personally

That's really interesting as I recently contemplated reverting my JCW back to an 11% from its 17% for the reasons you highlighted.

My car is at 1320 next month and I might get them to swap the pulley over at the same time as they map it.

Are you still on 380s? If so, how are your AFRs with the cam fitted? I've heard once a cam gets fitted the 380s are at the top of their working range, but then others say not. There's a lot of conflicting information online but I also guess each car is different.


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[Mon the fish]

That's really interesting as I recently contemplated reverting my JCW back to an 11% from its 17% for the reasons you highlighted.

My car is at 1320 next month and I might get them to swap the pulley over at the same time as they map it.

Are you still on 380s? If so, how are your AFRs with the cam fitted? I've heard once a cam gets fitted the 380s are at the top of their working range, but then others say not. There's a lot of conflicting information online but I also guess each car is different.


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I'm on 550s, 1320 mapped it when they dropped the cam in. I only got 20bhp (assuming it was putting out 210bhp originally) for the best part of £1k, but it's the driveability all across the rev range now that's astounding - it's the engine it should have been all along.

I was genuinely giggling to myself when I drove it home

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[will69176]

As some of you will know and have seen we have added a Hyper Blue R53 to the line up.

We are looking at doing some work on the car along the lines of 17% reduced pulley, Airtec or GRS IC, Orranje or DaveF airbox and cooler spark plugs (Recommendations). The car came with a PlayMINI/ Scorpion exhaust.

Is there anything we are missing are any recommendations for the above listed.

Looks like a good list, all things which require no remap as well. It's probably worth getting a manifold as well, assuming it just has a cat-back currently.

I noticed the biggest change in mine when I replaced the bypass valve, it's not particularly exciting, but was worth doing.

[Rogerg990]

BVH is another option. Will work better with other supporting mods.

[MINI William]

Thanks for the info folks. Won't be doing much until after Christmas as just no time just now.

[Dobboy]

My tupence worth of what i'd do, and the order of priority, assuming you want a car that can be driven fast on the B roads, without going into ditches or backwards into hedges, or worse.

Good Tyres - No point in having more power if you can't get the power on the tarmac or keep the car on the road.

Brakes - decent (not drilled) discs, either grooved or good quality plain. Take your pick with pads depending on how fast you want to stop, how much you want to spend. Standard callipers work well if good money is spent on discs and pads.
Brake fluid change - High boiling point stuff, fairly cheap and easy to do.

Eibach Pro lowering spring kit, I picked a set up for £45 second hand. Makes the car look nice, takes a lot of the SS+ trashiness away, and it handles much better. (The Eibachs are progressive, meaning you get comfort driving to Tesco's, but performance as they get loaded up on the windy stuff.)

Whiteline rARB - takes away a lot of understeer and helps front end grip if you haven't got a ATB or plated diff.

Upper strut brace - Lower ones seem pointless, the bottom should be stiff with the subframe, but a top brace seems to make the car feel much tighter and direct.

4 wheel alignment.

Reduced pulley and decent air filter as they are cheap and easy to do with good results.

By then you'll have a car you can sit in, use daily, use the power it's already got as standard, and know it's ready for more horses, (or a good diff), and you can spend 'till your hearts content!

[nobbyclark]

I would add a Newman cam to your shopping list. I've just had one fitted, along with a modified bypass valve, and it has transformed what was already a quick car into a rocketship.

[badwolf340]

Thanks for the input guys .....although a Turbo would be nice

[nobbyclark]

Speak to GTT about that; seem to remember that is their ultimate mod for an R53.