Why when changing your clutch you should always change your Dual Mass Flywheel

Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1
    Want More BHP! Sideways Steve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Paisley
    Car
    Mini Cooper S R53 & Mini Cooper Clubman R55
    Posts
    264
    Since many of you find these sort of things interesting I thought I would stick up some photos and detail of what can happen if you take the cheap route when changing your clutch and don't change out the dual mass flywheel at the same time.

    The Mini has a DMF therefore although this post is based on my Porsche Boxster it is still relevant and I urge you all to pay close attention !

    In this instance a £300 ish part resulted in £15,000 of engine damage. Luckily as you all know I like to get my hands dirty so I managed to cap the repair costs to around £1000 and a couple of weekends of my time as well as some workshop time on my work lunch breaks to make a few special tools I needed to complete the engine build.

    I will start by listing the detail of the destruction caused and follow up with the photos :)

    The process of self destruction was as follows:

    1) Dual mass flywheel failed causing imbalance in the end of the crank.

    2) Last main beaing began to wear excessively causing more imbalance and movement in end of crank.

    3) Imbalance at high RPM caused crank flex leading to the flywheel/clutch assembly contacting the gearbox bellhousing.

    4) Bellhousing contact "kinked" the end of the crankshaft (forces in excess of 1800 Nm acting upon the end of the crank)

    5) Clutch was damaged and started to slip

    6) Previous Owner took car to garage regarding the clutch issue and strange vibrations at certain RPM

    7) Garage incorrectly renewed the flywheel which was found to be faulty and replaced the clutch but DID NOT check for damage to the crankshaft

    8) Car ran not too bad for 6 months being driven normally but due to the now kinked crank the bearing wear in the last main bearing got worse and worse.

    9) Eventually the main bearing nearest the flywheel failed completely due to the huge forces acting upon it through crank imbalance and the next in bearing began to wear.

    10) The now huge amounts of crank movement damaged the new DMF and was allowing the assembly to wiggle about contacting parts of the gearbox bellhousing again whilst all the time wearing the end and second main bearings more and more to the point of complete destruction.

    Photos and a video in the link below :)

    http://s307.photobucket.com/user/Dri...oken%20Boxster
    Last edited by Sideways Steve; 11th April 2014 at 02:33 PM.

  2. #2
    Wheelspin Kid Eddie_JCW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Edinburgh
    Car
    2018 Cooper S Works 210
    Posts
    1,762
    Excellent post Steve

  3. #3
    One half of Gobi and Sahara EcosseGP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Larbert
    Car
    F54 and F56
    Posts
    5,264
    ^^ interesting read
    You only need two tools in life WD40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should use WD40 and if it moves and shouldn't use Duct Tape.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Follow Us
About us
You'll find details of our packed social calendar including MINI Runs, organised car shows, meet-ups for munchies, and other social events. There's also a wealth of information on the three latest generations of the new MINI from BMW, including owners pictures, common fault fixes, "how-to's", owner reviews and a bucket load of advice for all new MINI owners. Whether you have one of the first MINI's from the early 2000's, a second generation R56, or are planning a purchase of a nice shiny new F series, whether your car is a MINI One, a Cooper, Cooper S, JCW or a GP, THIS is the web site for you!