Manky Days Are Over

[Gismo]

Ok folks, it's question time, the manky days are in the past
Since my next mini is destined to be my keeper car i will be looking after it.

I'm in need of advice for products, i have several bottles of stuff i've never used and intend throwing them out to get a good basis to start from.

All my local shops stock meguiars and other notable brands, but, have stumbled upon Autogeek from whom i aim to purchase all my cleaning goodies.

If any of the resident detailing guys wouldn't mind looking at what would be suitable for me as a starting point from the autogeek site, even a starter kit to work from i'd really appreictae it.
Let's be honest, i'm never gonna be as dedicated as most of you, but dont mind spending time on the initial session and then a couple of hours every other month.

I'll primarily have 2 black vehicles, 1 x mini and 1 x avalanche and a white lease car that has a supaguard type covering on it and that has to remain on for the insurance purpose.

I'm not scared to try a porter cable polisher, but thats for the future, i hope the mini is in decent shape.

I intend to source a foam kit for my power washer.

So folks, help me spend some money

Lance
foam
Shampoo
grit guard buckets
APC
Wheel Cleaner
Tar & Iron remover
Clay Bar
Polish
Sealant
Wax
Wheel Sealant
Tyre Gel
Trim Sealant
Dinamica Leather Protector
Towel Kit
Applicators
Upholstery Brush
Wheel Brush

[Stewart]

Everyone is beyond me on the detailing front by a country mile, I think of myself more as a cautious cleaner over the more extreme. But thought I’d add my thoughts. I’ve spent hundreds on car stuff mostly at Clean your car but that no use to you over there.

Wool mitt is a given in my case the trick after use and a rinse with clean water to remove any suds is to leave it damp in the bucket and cover the bucket with a lid. I also have a Microfibre Wash Sponge for washing the trim etc and door shuts etc just to keep the Wool Mitt for the body panels.

Two Buckets with grit guards

I’ve always used Meg’s Hyperwash as my Shampoo actual have it in a Gil foam master so I know its clean suds every time but that’s a bit OTT.But it saves on a second Bucket.

I’ve got he foam lance and use it with MagiFoam.

Iron X keeps brake fallout to a minimum on the Alloys (great stuff)

Good Tar remover is always good to have if you can get Craig’s stuff over there it’s the best I’ve used. "Autosmart" I know how fickle the US is with Chemicals so it may not be sold over there.

I have three great quality Sonus Drying towels, one marked only gets used on the black roof. Also there is a great Sonus washer liquid to use in your washing machine to keep them like knew.

Oh and enough foam applicators to float the Titanic.

Everyone will have favourite products, waxes, Sealants and I’m sure everyone will share. I imagine washing your car later in the day when its cooler in the shade.Sorry bit of a unorganised response there as I'm just heading out. But good luck once you start it will take hold.

[john]

Your first like got me!!!
pits a keeper??? What does that mean???

[Gismo]

Cheers Stewart

[Gismo]

Your first like got me!!!
pits a keeper??? What does that mean???

Eh

[GreigJCW]

I was asked by a few of my mates offshore. So this is my brief detailing description of what I do, the products I use and the techniques I have found and been told over the years.

Its not as brief as I thought it would be LOL. However its thorough.

These products and techniques are in no way the be all and end all but having spent a lot of time, money and effort over the last 5 yrs or so they are in my opinion good and work for me. There will no doubt be better ones out there so I am always open to ideas or suggestions on how to improve on this. First thing before you start is remove jewellery and watches etc.

Ok so I will do this methodically indicating products etc as I go through.

(I am not going to go onto machine polishing as this is a whole thread in itself)

The initial wash.

This in my opinion is where the most damage gets done. It is really important to have a good technique here.

For this you are going to need a pressure washer with snow foam lance.





This is the one I bought from cleanyourcar.co.uk click

With this I use an amazing product I cannot recommend more. The product is Autosmart XLS actimousse. click

An ebay link too click



You put about 1 cm in the bottom of the bottle and top up with warm water.

Apply this with your pressure washer directly onto the car. Quite important here for the car to be dry prior to applying as. If its wet the product will not work as well. Apply to the whole car including wheels. ( Be careful here I have read about the actimousse not being great on painted/refurbished wheels so check before using it on the wheels)



Leave the product for abour 5-10 minutes but try not to let it dry on the paint. ie if its warm and sunny this time will reduce.

Now using you normal lance power wash the car thoroughly making sure the sills, under the doors etc have no product on them. (I actually use a separate hose to run water over these areas, its easier)

Now its time to wash the car properly.

The 2 bucket wash.

A note this technique above is perfect for winter as the only wash you do or if you just want to give the car a once over.

So for this you are going to need 2 buckets with grit guards and a good wash mitt (I prefer a lambs wool one)



The idea of the two buckets is to have one with clean warm water for rinsing and one with your soap wash. I have heard of people using a third for their wheels. I just prefer to do them last.

These are the buckets I use click

This is the wash mitt I use. click

For this wash I want to remove as much of the old products as possible so I use a good APC (all purpose cleaner) I find G101 or Meguires APC both very good. fill up 2/3's with warm water. megs stuff G101






(This is personal preference but I sometimes do a wash with the snowfoam lance and the APC prior to this, its upto you. If you do I recommend a 1-4 or 1-2 ration mix)

Fill the rinse bucket as high as you can with warm water.

If you have done the initial wash properly the car will be fairly clean prior to the two bucket wash.

Now using your wash mitt I always start on the bonnet. This is the area that you see the most IMO so always treat it first. Clean the bonnet, then the roof, doors, windows, bumpers then finally the sills (in that order). Do a panel at a time rinsing after each panel in your clean water bucket.

Its always worth a quick look at your mitt before putting it on a panel, just checking to see its not filthy.

Ok back to your lance and rinse the car thoroughly.

Prior to takling the wheels I now get my other hose and run water over each panel starting on the roof windows, bonnets door and side panels.
If you do this slowly it should remove a lot of the water.





OK so we have got most of the water off its time to clean the wheels.

The wheel clean.

My car is kept well so I dont have ground in brake dust so this technique is for fairly clean wheels.

Anway the product I use is Autosmart smart wheels click

Using a spray bottle I normally dilute about 1 part to 2 parts water, however if you are a clean freak 1 to 4 would be ok and likewise extra dirty wheels use neat. This can either be left for a few minutes or agitated with a wheel brush.

Rinse using power washer then again run over with the hose to remove all the excess water.

Drying


At this point the car should be fairly dry if not I will show you a good method to remove anything left over. If you have followed the above routine the car should be pretty clean (at least for the loose dirt) So drying the car now should not get your towel dirty

For this I find a good drying towel a must. The one I use is the dodo juice premium towel click but tbh any good drying towel will work well.

Starting with the bonnet, roof, doors, sides/windows then bumpers/sills (roughly) lie the towel on the surface and pad. Try not to rub the paintwork if you can. If you have a good towel it will absorb the moisture without rubbing and potentially scratching your paint.





Contaminant removal

Its time to get rid of those contaminants on the paint now, yes believe it or not your car is still filthy.

The first thing we are going to do is get the small tar spots off the car. For this your going to use autosmart tardis glue and tar remover. click This stuff is amazing, spray to the whole car (especially if this is the first time this has been done in while) wheels, exhaust tips etc.



Leave for about 5 minutes or so and you will see the tar literally running off the car. I now get a new/clean micro fibre cloth and wet with more tardis solution, and wipe each panel. Use a new microfibre for each panel.



Once complete you need to clean the car again. This is tedious but trust me it will be worth it. Its upto you how much of the above routine you do but I recommend at least a power wash with the APC then a rinse and dry.

Next we need the iron contaminants off the car. IMO there's just one product for this and that's car pro iron X. click



This is similar to the tar removal, spray on and wait till the contaminants turn to purple /red (5 mins ish) then using your clean microfibre wipe each panel (remember new cloth for each panel) Mind and do not let the iron X dry on the car. (warm dry days time will be less)

Once complete you have to wash AGAIN. I recommend at least a power wash with the APC then a rinse and dry.

The last process before applying products is to clay bar.

People get hung up on this but its easy if you both take your time and use plenty of lubrication.

The claykit I use is the meguiars one. I have tried a few but I have found this pretty good. click

To clay simply get your clay bar and warm in your hands until the clay is soft and mailable.



Wet or lubricate the paint well and simply rub gently onto the paint. As long as you keep the surface well lucubrated and be fairly gentle you should be fine. Take your time and complete the claying for all the painted surfaces. Avoid coming into things like the trims etc. Some people tape off these areas I for one just take my time and am careful.




Once the car is clayed guess what, yes you've guessed you need to wash again. This is the final wash before applying product so for me it's 2 new clean buckets of water and go through the full wash process again, drying as explained before.

Now here's where there are a million products and techniques so again this is mine and I find it gives amazing results.

(It goes without saying if you were intending on doing a machine polish to get rid of fine scratches and swirls this is when you would do it.)


Glaze/polish

This is my newest and most favourite product.
Prima Amigo Polymer Glaze. click

I am STUNNED at this product its just amazing. Apply again using an applicator pad but this time in small areas before buffing with a clean microfibre cloth. Typically I would do the bonnet in three areas , doors in 2 roof in 4 and the rest in single panels.

It can be applied by either hand ie pad or with a machine polisher. With the machine polisher and a polishing or cutting pad you'll also reduce fine swirl marks.

Sealant

Now it's time to seal. The product i use which is again amazing is Chemical guys black light. For dark cars this is a must and gives you a real liquid gloss look.

CG's blacklight click

Using an applicator pad ( I use megs ones and cannot fault them click apply this product to the whole car. It has a cure time of about 20 mins so get it onto every panel before buffing off with a clean microfibre.



I only apply one layer of this but you could do 2 if you wish. Remember and avoid things like the plastic trim. Top tip though if you do get some on the black plastic use your APC neat with a micro fibre to remove any stains)


We are getting there now.

Waxing

The last product onto the paint is your wax.



I have tried loads and pound for pound for value for money, ease of use and long lasting ability I cannot fault Collinite 476 super double coat wax. click
This is an amazing wax and will last at least 6 months even with regular washing.

Apply again using a new clean applicator pad and buff off again using a clean micro fibre.

There are quite a few top tips here.

1. Only do small areas with the wax, similar to the glaze. If you apply over too big an area it will dry and you'll struggle to buff off.

2. Apply very thin coast. 2 thin coats are much better than a heavy application and will probably take less time.

3. When you open you tin put a small tea spoon of warm water into the wax. (it will slowly absorb into the upper layer) This will make applying the wax much easier. I also wet my pad then wring it out until almost dry, again this will aid application.

4. Use a clean micro fibre for at least each panel, you dont want you cloth too contaminated with the previously buffed off wax. I can use a dozen cloths for the waxing alone.

So thats the paint work done and it should look like a mirror now.

I recently changed my wax to chemical guys 50/50. This is much easier to use but, it's a lot pricier won't last as long on the car and you'll only get maybe 8-10 cars for a £40 tin. For cars that I do that wont get touched for another 6 months the collinite is better.












So whats left well the wheels, tyres, glass, plastics and the engine bay.

Wheels.

I use poorboys wheel sealant.(click) Haven't found anything better it simply works. Apply to wheel and buff off, I like 2 coats.

Tyres

This has been the bane of my life until I found this. Bartons tyre sheenclick

Easily without a doubt the best I have used. I decant it into a small jar then using a small brush apply to the tyres. Once applied buff off excess with a micro fibre cloth. Always try and not drive the car for at least an hour after applying this stuff (it will spray onto the car if not dry)





Trim

This is another area I hated until I found autosmart trim ultra (and G101). A small amount of this goes a long way.

click

Clean the plastic carefully using a damp cloth and G101 (or megs APC). Once done get a small cloth or even a microfibre applicator pad. I actually use an old glass gloth here. Apply evenly to all the black plastic trim and buff off excess.

A couple of things about this. Firstly DONT get it onto the paint, if you do wipe off immediately. Secondly only apply if you are sure it wont rain in the next hour or two. Once its dried properly it wont run and not only does it make your trim look stunning it last for ages. I mean you'll do this max 3-4 times a year.

Engine Bay.

Use the megs APC or the G101 about 1-2 parts and spray on and wipe clean, can't beat it for cleaning and degreasing.





Glass

Autoglym fast glass cleaner ( click ) its the only stuff I have used and works really well.

Chemical guys do a new glass cleaner too, just got it and its very good too.

Interior plastics/pedal etc

Simply use your G101 again, or chemical guys nonsense which if I'm honest has converted me from 101. No smell too which is a bonus.



Well Thats it I think, no doubt I will have missed something. Again I must stress these are my techniques and products which I have perfected over the yrs, everyone has their routine and products so good luck and I hope you can get some useful information. I have made many mistakes and bought many products that I was simply not impressed with. These are all middle of the road and wont set you back a fortune. Most of the links are from cleanyourcar.co.uk too, which I have found very good for service and price, hope this helps a bit Alan.

Please feel free to add your thoughts or tips please.

[Gismo]

Great write up Greig, many very good tips for me
Not all your products are available to me, but, like you i'm gonna try various things and see what works for me.
An absolute must will be a porter cable polisher, my Avalanche is horrific and will give me good practice for when the mini needs it, am not too fussed if i make a mistake on the Avalanche.

I'll try out your routine, for me in summer it's like 105f heat index, so, very quick drying times and at times almost impossible to wash and not leave streaks and being in that heat for so long is not nice.
The claying will be interesting, probably have to run the hose continuously.

I can get collinite 476 so that will be on the list, i'll likely stick with Meguiars for the washing

[Gismo]

Greig, the Meguires 101 APC you mentioned above, can you confirm it is D 101?
Reason i ask is i can get it but it lists it as an interior APC

[Stewart]

Your man covered everything but I’ll add if I lived out there I’d get the 303 Aerospace to do the inside trim. It’s like Sun block for your car. I actually use it outside on my trim as it says it works outside as and look to me like it does fine even in Scotland with rain beading on the trim with it on. I would not say it last ages but I top it up if I’m going any place I want the car to look its best.

Waxing in that Temp you’ll have to do ¼ of the roof at a time. One put wax on the roof and the guy across the road came out and stated talking before he drove off. I went back and it was a nightmare to get off. I luckily had some “Last Touch” but even then nightmare. You live and learn as they say.

[Gismo]

Your man covered everything but I’ll add if I lived out there I’d get the 303 Aerospace to do the inside trim

Do you mean this

Any suggestions for the JCW Seats?