To wax, or to polish, what's the difference?

[AndyP & Lenore]

OK. Simpleton town here....

As most of you know we tend to stick to JewelUltra Diamondbrite for out paint protection and detailing. However, with our new purchase (see this thread), we are looking for some advice for the wash/wax/polishing process.

What process and products do you use?

A.

[vintageb3]

OK. Simpleton twon here....

As most of you know we tend to stick to JewelUltra Diamondbrite for out paint protection and detailing. However, with our new purchase (see this thread), we are looking for some advice for the wash/wax/polishing process.

What process and products do you use?

A.

Them all....

i would tell...but you won't listen to me...or anyone else

mark

[Scottie]

Ian King is into detailing world and polishing big time. I think he either has a PC or maybe even a rotary polisher and I am sure Vintage B3 has one also didn't he do a amazing job on his transit.

I would advise with a 2 year old car that you get whoever to do a job on your car and get all the paint work correction done that is required.

This then gives you a very nice surface to try the many products available.

For me I like the Klasse AIO and for wax I think you will go a long way to beat
CGuys 50/50 limited edition.

although we have got the DoDo Juice to try on the x'er

[vintageb3]

Fi is right...get the paintwork corrected (if any defects) and machine polished if necessary. Then you start with a clean slate.

Bottom line from paint correction to washing a car: Use the least invasive method at your disposal to correct the problem in front of you.

I had my car rotary polished when I got it...and have PC'd the bonnet only. I plan to do the whole car eventually.

Its quite interesting and rewarding working on the paintwork of your car.

Do you know if the car has a clear coat?...if it doesn't...it could be a breeze to repair stone chips. Its a bit tougher with clear coat...its more than just an extra step.

I'm not going to tell you how on here....I can't be bothered typing tonight We will talk at some point....

mark

[JCWmini]

I have used zymol products on my cars/bikes for about 10 years now and am very satisfied with the results. Unfortunatly as i have less and less time due to family etc washing and waxing takes a back seat.

Zymol has a paint restorer produce called HD Cleanse which removes most of the surface imperfections that accumulate on paintwork over time.

It usually takes about 8 hours for me to wash, cleanse and wax and detail a car, its by no means a professional valet but its good enough for me.

Only do/ that twice a year, April/Sept reast of the time its just wash and occasionally wax one panel a time.

[ianking]

Like others have said you need to get the paint tip top before you bother with expensive waxes.

Cars should only need polished about every 6 months but you can wax until your heart is content.

For correction work I use Menzerna but I am about to start using 3M products as they give amazing results.

My wax of choice at the moment is Zymol but it is very very very pricey but it leaves an amazing finish.

Give me a call if you want me to do your car or if you want any more info.
Its a kind of hobby of mine that now also helps fund a classic mini as I am getting alot of jobs to do for folk.

[AndyP & Lenore]

Cheers Ian.

I was speaking to VintageB3 last night. He recommends a PC, but I think I'm gonna tackle this one by hand for now. If we were doing all three cars with polishing and waxing, I'd maybe think about one, but for now, I'm gonna stick to hand.

Also gonna stick to me and myself doing it - thanks for the offer of your professional services - that's one of the reasons we bought the car; a labour of love.

The plan for just now (during the crappy winter weather) is to stick a decent wax on it. The paintwork quality is actually very good. There's a fair few very light swirls (as you would expect on a red car) but hardly any chips. No dings at all.

In early spring I plan to:

Clay Bar all the crap off the car.
Polish to get even more crap off the car and remove any oxidised paintwork.
Seal the paintwork.
Wax away to may hearts content.

Can you tell I don;t have a ******* clue what I'm talking about and I got this form others? LOL

Anyway... that's the plan. I may have missed out some stages. Going to be doing more research from now to then, so should be better informed by the time I get down to doing it.

A.

[ianking]

I will sort out a list of things you need and will give you the gen the next time I see you.

[AndyP & Lenore]

I will sort out a list of things you need and will give you the gen the next time I see you.

Cool. Cheers.

[vintageb3]

Remember Andy...you can't remove oxidized paint from a car that has clear coat. You can remove oxidation from the clearcoat though.

My black car has clear coat...but i wonder if the red does...Ian may know as he had 2 red cars. I would hope that the red doesn't have clear....so you could in fact deal with the paint fading. But maybe the red is clearcoated...and that's enough to deal with the UV from the sun.

If it doesn't have clearcoat...it would be a breeze removing stone chips and even deep scratches by wetsanding and using a PC.

I use Menzerna at present...and i can assure you that the clearcoat is tuff on the Mini's!

3M stuff is on par with Menzerna I've been told by a pro.

This pro told me it wasn't worth going over to 3M until the Menzerna was finished. (just trying to save you pennies Ian)

I just removed all the stone chips from my bonnet. I used wetsanding in this process using 2000 grade wet and dry paper....then PC'd the sanding marks out. Plenty of clearcoat left.

You may think that wetsanding is a fierce attack on the paintwork but it can be less invasive than a cutting pad and cutting compound..and as always...choose the least invasive method FIRST...if that doesn't work...try that method again BEFORE stepping up a level.

After polishing...I applied glaze before sealing the paint with a Meguairs polymer sealant. I think the glaze makes a great difference. I'm going to stick another coat of sealant on today. I'm not sure about using pure carnuba anymore....I may stick to a polymer.

The Zymol Ian?....Is it polymer or carnuba?

mark