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I need to replace my discs and pads on all four corners and have decided to fit them myself to avoid paying a squillion quid in labour for a job i can easily do myself. Where I am encountering a problem is finding the tool to separate the rear calipers and i was wondering if anybody had 1 i could hire/borrow and also if there were any tips i might find useful?:I:D:D
there a peice of piss to do..
tools Needed...
1. Elbow Grease..
2. Special Star Socket( Disc Removal.)
3. Special Allen Bar. ( Caliper Removal)
4. Wheel brace.
5. Pri bar.
6. Snib nose Pliars..
Goes like this..
Remove Wheels Chocking the car according to Haynes as we all dooooo....
then Slacken the Bolt that holds teh Discs on ( WITH AN ASSISTANT HOLDING THE BRAKE.... Easier)
then Remove Caliper With Caliper Removal tool...
then Slide Out Brake Pads. ( Watch if you have the Sensor/warnign light for Low break pads.)
Screw the Piston Back Into the Caliper With Snib Nose Pliars..(Might want to Slacken the Resevoir first.)
Unscrew Remaining Threads on the Disc and Change.
then Re fit calliper.
Job Done.
Remember though Copper Grease stops squeeling and Don't Drive at warp speed after you changed tehm They need to bed in..
good Luck...
If you were In Aberdeen I would have done them for you..
what you need... in slightly more in depth terms is..
a 7mm allen key socket for undoing the calliper
a large flat blade screwdriver is handy for removing the spring clip
then you will need a T60... it might be T50 torx socket for removing the disc however i'd use WD40 on the back and front of it as it seizes and snaps very easily
then you don't need to remove the calliper carrier just lean the disc and it will come out
as for the callipers as they are directly affected byt the handbrak get a 10mm deep socket and slacken your handbrake cable till there is no tension and some free play but not enough to completely remove it from inside the car (underneath the handbrake gaitor)
then you need to turn the calliper piston clockwise while pushing it back..
quite tricky without the correct tool but can be managed with some needle nose pliers and some determination... just don't keep trying to turn it when it stops or you will seize it. repeat with 0ther side then rebuild press brake ppedal to bring pads bak into contact and then tighten and adjust handbrake to however many clicks you require.. ;)
hope this helps
also if you have a sensor wire running into the back of one of the sides brake pads you will need a replacement sensor, it can be done without replacing it but tbh it's 50/50 wether it breaks or not on removal
thanks for the help guys, now to go buy the discs/pads!
Johnny,
Front Pads £45
Rear Pads £32.50
Front Discs £63 (per set)
Rear discs £63 (per set)
All in stock at Menzies MINI
BigSwanMiniMan:D
blimey thats cheep i paid a bit more and got the lohen ecb kit and its good have heard good things about the GTT spirol shots as well
I replaced my front & rears with the GTT Spiroslot brakes - they squeek now & then but are far superior to the standard ones and not that expensive either!
im sawwping to the GTT ones and getting the front kevaler pads up grade as my rears are now wapred
i just did my pads and got front and back standard pads for less then the front pads alone !!!!!!Quote:
quote:Originally posted by BigSwanMiniMan
Johnny,
Front Pads £45
Rear Pads £32.50
Front Discs £63 (per set)
Rear discs £63 (per set)
All in stock at Menzies MINI
BigSwanMiniMan:D
Can anyone tell me how to access the handbrake cable in my pre facelift MINI as I'm a bit stumped.
Also, my dealer told me recently that all of my brakes needed replacing and on inspection they quite clearly don't. My discs have barely any wear on them and the front pads still have a fair amount of material left on them. However, the inner pad on my rear nearside brake was worn all the way down to the base material while the outer one is fine (why i didnt notice when i normally check my brakes).
My theory is that the piston may well be jammed, has anybody had a similar problem that can offer me a bit of advice?
calliper could well be seized but would can't diagnose from my seat here hehe as for how to get at the handbrake cable it's under the handbrake gaiter you'll need a deep 13mm socket to undo it but getting the gaitor unclipped without breaking it is a complete ****er of a job
Cheers Gorbash. I know, I tried at the weekend and only succeeded in pulling a bit of the leather away. Think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and buy a winback tool. Any advice on how to service the calliper? Think my mum has a similar problem actually.
Yup, that's what happened twice on my Black Cooper - second time they replaced calipers & discs to fix the problem.Quote:
quote:Originally posted by AeroJonny
However, the inner pad on my rear nearside brake was worn all the way down to the base material while the outer one is fine (why i didnt notice when i normally check my brakes).
My theory is that the piston may well be jammed, has anybody had a similar problem that can offer me a bit of advice?
My understanding is that the handbrake works on the inner pad, the handbrake may become sticky, particularly in winter, and this results in the handbrake staying on enough to not be noticed but enough to wear down the pads. Something about the road dirt / salt getting into the caliper.
I now try to park on the level and not use the handbrake to avoid this happening. I also, when safe to do so, use the handbrake to slow the car every so often, which I was told would help keep the handbrake working freely.
Hope this helps
Balls!!! I think it's happening in both cars. Part of the drive has a slight slope, so one of them has to have the handbrake on tbh. Is there any way of servicing the caliper rather than replacing it?
I would have thought the caliper could be dismantled, cleaned , new seals, etc. Mine was under warranty so didn't touch it myself.
Warranty ran out 3 weeks ago...makes you sick!!