Stripping Diamondbrite

The blue MINI is now going to be with us, we suspect, until the Roadster is out in 18 months or 2 years. We both really like the look of the concept cars and hope that the finished version will be what we've wanted in a MINI for years. A convertible with a hard top!

So, after years of faithful dedication to Jewelultra Diamondbrite on several cars incouding our Hyper Blue Cooper S and our current Laser Blue Cooper S, we've decided to strip it off and go for the traditional wash/polish/wax route.

So, some questions more for "The King of Shine" than anyone, but any constructive input appreciated....

What is the best way to strip off the Diamondbrite coating? Tardis, G101 or something else?

Once it's stripped, am I right in saying I should "seal" the paintwork? And if so, with what?

I've just ordered a new tub of Blackfire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste wax for all 3 cars.

A.:thumbs up:

Well done sir.

You wont look back, well actually you probably will, every time you walk away from the car you will look back over your shoulder at the quality shine.

Last time I saw your blue car I thought the paint fealt quite rough.
I would give it a foam down with an inch of G101 in your foamer. Then wash it with G101 in your bucket mixed with a bit of shampoo for lubrication.
That should help get the most of the diamondbrite off.
I would seriously recommend claying the blue car. I would just use either the megs white clay that comes in the clay kit (although you can now get the clay seperately for £9.99) or use sonus green. Both easy to get hold of and very mild but not too mild so will pick up the contaminents, if that makes sense.

I would then polish the car before procedding to wax. If you dont have time to run over with your menzerna on the G220 then you could polish with good old autoglym super resin. Waxing with your Blackfire will work a treat.

I’ll be interested on what you think of your wax you ordered. I’ve been using the Blackfire all finish protection that is for sealing the polish, then I’ve been using Pete 53 wax on top. It seems to bond fine but next time I’m getting the Midnight sun.

I just used AG SRP, Glaze, BF-Sealant, and Pete 53 on my roof and happy with it. Seems to bead like mad.

After the polish I would use FK425.

My routine would be

remove DB
Clay
wash car again and dry me I'm currently washing using a grout sponge from B&Q (yes thats right a grout sponge)

Machine - with Lime Prime apply and remove
Machine - polish of your choice and remove
Machine - apply and remove CG Glaze
Applya sealant (of your choice) by hand and remove with machine
Hand apply and remove wax of your choice.

maintain by washing and drying and top up after every wash with a QD of your choice.

Cheers for the input folks.

Ian, last time I clayed the red MINI it left marring on the paintwork, which was easily removed with the G220 and Menzerna. But if I clay the Blue MINI and it leaves the same marring, will a hand polish with AG SRP get rid of the marring marks? Or will I have to G220 it?

Really looking forward to getting stuck into this now. I just hope the weather is good on Thursday as that's the target day to do the full job on the blue MINI as well as a full detail of the Beemer including applying the 303 you (Ian) suggested I get for the soft-top.

Thinking about it now, one day may not be enough to do all this.:eek:

A.:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scottie

wash car again and dry me I'm currently washing using a grout sponge from B&Q (yes thats right a grout sponge)

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A sponge, a grout sponge?

I thought a sponge was more likely than a deep pile (lambswool) mitt to leave grit near the surface and be a risk to the paint?

What, may I ask is your reasoning to using this? Does it work better than a soft mitt?

Thanks :thumbs up:

No, Scottie has been tiling the MINI for that unique look.

This was her inspiration

http://static.panoramio.com/photos/o...l/19406097.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KenL

A sponge, a grout sponge?

What, may I ask is your reasoning to using this? Does it work better than a soft mitt?

Thanks :thumbs up:

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http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...ut-sponge.html

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...ighlight=grout

Fi

why would you machine dodo lime prime then machine a polish.
It should be the other way about.
Or for a car that has minimal swirls lime prime on the machine will be enough to fix it and will actually leave the paint ready for LSP.

Andy you must not be using enough lube spray with your clay and perhaps rubbing too hard and/or not turning and nneeding a fresh surface of the clay.
I tend to have the car soaking when I am claying. I always wash the car again after to remove any wee bits that may have stuck to the car.
My offer of help is there if you want but I think you work most weekends and I work during the week.

Your braver than me with the machine polish even if its just the G220. I’d love to have it part of my kit. I plan to go to one of the Detailing meets in Scotland to see it in action. Your man Volvic seems to know his stuff.

Can I ask did the G220 make a hell of a difference to the finish or did it just make it a quicker Job?

You wont burn any paint with a G220. In fact with the mini paint being so hard it can be difficult to get a 100% correction with a G220 or PC etc.

I use a rotary but it has taken a long time to master. In fact im still learning other we bits about it.

Using a G220 type machine will make the paint look better as it will help remove the light defects.

Cheers for the info.

So the G220 is safe with a bit of care. I got reading a few months before I bought the car on detailing World and before I knew it I had about £300 of stuff.
Decided this year to use the stuff so next year might buy one. If I had garage and not just the drive I’d have bought one, but the neighbours think I’m overdoing as it is.:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ianking

Fi

why would you machine dodo lime prime then machine a polish.
It should be the other way about.
Or for a car that has minimal swirls lime prime on the machine will be enough to fix it and will actually leave the paint ready for LSP.

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couldn't remember if we then used the polish afterwards or not but Allan says no.