Diesel tuning

[Kettlepot]

I'm wondering if anyone has any tuning info in regards to R56 Cooper SD's I have had a brief chat with someone who said a basic remap would be about all you can do without removing the DPF as it's this that holds the engine back. He said intake temps don't get high enough to warrant a bigger intercooler etc.
Could anyone confirm or deny this ?
Anyone tuning an SD ?

I'm told (by her in doors) I need to get bigger brakes before I make it go faster (I don't need to be told twice [emoji23])

[mini mad andy]

I'm wondering if anyone has any tuning info in regards to R56 Cooper SD's I have had a brief chat with someone who said a basic remap would be about all you can do without removing the DPF as it's this that holds the engine back. He said intake temps don't get high enough to warrant a bigger intercooler etc.
Could anyone confirm or deny this ?
Anyone tuning an SD ?

I'm told (by her in doors) I need to get bigger brakes before I make it go faster (I don't need to be told twice [emoji23])


Hi Kettlepot,

Depending on the age and model mini started encrypting the connection between the OBD port and the ECU, before this happened you could remap the ECU through the OBD port, after this happened to remap the ECU you have to remove it from the car and take the cover off it so that connections can be made directly onto the PCB assembly.

The encryption happened on the Countryman around 2012, not sure about other models.

The alternative is to fit a tuning box, preferably twin/multi channel, they are obviously not as good as a remap but there's not a big difference. The twin channel boxes control the fuelling and the turbo boost, the single channel boxes only control the fuelling. Do not get a cheap one on eBay as some of them are just variable resistors that trick the ECU into over fuelling the engine, make sure it is microprocessor controlled.

Removing the DPF adds about an extra 10BHP.

The tuning boxes will increase the power to about 180 - 190 BHP without removing the DPF, and give you a healthy increase in torque.

Don't think a bigger intercooler would make much if any difference.

The SD engine is the same engine that's in the BMW 318 which is the same block that's in the BMW 320, it is just the ancillaries attached the the block that are different ie. the injectors, ECU, probably the turbo etc. You could look at updating it to BMW 320 spec.!!!




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[Kettlepot]

Thanks for that Andy, cracking detail. I had been told half of that in the past but didn't know how true it was, clearly more than I thought. It's always nice when someone independent can confirm things for you !
I will have a look on realOem to see what part numbers match and work from there I guess.
For info it's a 2011 R56 SD
I think the torque figure can go up from 225nm to 300(ish)
Thanks again, your a star
Ian

[mini mad andy]

Hi Ian,

I would have thought the torque should be about 300nm standard rising to about 380nm to 400nm with a remap or tuning box.

It was about 2012 they started encrypting the OBD to ECU connection on the Countryman, don't know if it happened earlier to the R56. If you ask one of the remapping specialist they should be able to advise you.

It would be interesting to try updating it to BMW 320 spec. but it's probably a lot of work, that's not necessarily a reason not to try it though!!!


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[MINI William]

Give our sponsors Knox Performance a shout and see what Chris can do for the car

[Kettlepot]

Hi Ian,

I would have thought the torque should be about 300nm standard rising to about 380nm to 400nm with a remap or tuning box.

It was about 2012 they started encrypting the OBD to ECU connection on the Countryman, don't know if it happened earlier to the R56. If you ask one of the remapping specialist they should be able to advise you.

It would be interesting to try updating it to BMW 320 spec. but it's probably a lot of work, that's not necessarily a reason not to try it though!!!


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There's never a reason not too !

I'm gonna look into what parts are similar/different as it's always better to start with better base line before remapping etc

I've had people suggest chipping it etc but I'm a firm believer of better parts keeps the "reliability factor" plus I don't want to have to pay twice etc or pay too much via insurance etc



Give our sponsors Knox Performance a shout and see what Chris can do for the car

I will give Chris Knox a shout to see what he recommends

Thanks again [emoji1303] (to you both)